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LaLonde Aesthetics
1443 Rainbow Valley Blvd
Fallbrook, CA 92028

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Questions and Answers

How Do Sunscreens Work?

Sunscreens work by either absorbing or reflecting the sun's rays.  Absorbing ingredients absorb the UV rays and release heat energy.  The two FDA approved reflecting ingredients, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, work by reflecting the sun's rays and are less irritating for people with sensitive skin as they disperse heat rather than absorb it.  Many sunscreen's combine the two types in one product.

 

 

 

My sunscreen is water resistant.  Do I still need to reapply after swimming?

Water resistant sunscreen has to be tested and documented to remain effective after 40 minutes of swimming. So, technically, it's still there if you haven't exceeded that time limit.  But what did you do after you got out of the water?  Probably toweled off, right? So how much sunscreen is left on you and how much protection does your towel now have?  If you just jumped in to cool off, patted yourself dry and are now sitting under an umbrella you're probably fine.  Anything more, reapply.

 

 

 

How much sunscreen should I use?

For your face, a teaspoon, rub it in almost all the way, then let the rest absorb.  And remember to apply at least 20 minutes before you go into the sun and reapply every 2 hours if you sweat and everytime you get out of the water.

 

 

What should I look for in an anti-aging product?

 

There are hundreds of products on the market that claim anti-aging benefits.  Everyone seems to have the must have ingredient or formula.  People have different needs and desires they want addressed; dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, hyper-pigmentation (age spots), loss of elasticity and fullness, or a combination of issues.  How do you choose which product is right for you?  There are six key catagories that must be considered. This simple guide can get you started:

 

  1. Prevention - First and foremost will always be broad spectrum UV protection.  You'll never have to correct a problem that was never created in the first place.  What to look for in a sunscreen is an SPF of 30 or higher for UVB protection and ingredients such as oxybenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and avobenzone for UVA protection.
  2. Anti oxidants to fight free radicals - Look for these ingredients:  Vitamin C, Vitamin A, green tea, grape seed, flavonoids, retinol, and reservatrol. 
  3. Anti inflammatories - Much damage is intensified by irritated, inflammed skin.  Argon oil, it's everywhere now, chamomile, yes like the tea, witch hazel, licorice, oatmeal, niacinamede, bisabolol, allantoin, and aloe vera are common ant inflammatories.
  4. Melanin inhibitors - hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, licorice extract, mulberry, and niacinamide.
  5. Collagen synthesis aids - Only the body can make collagen, it cannot be added through products; however, there are ingredients that aid in production.  Peptides, peptides, peptides!  Peptides are amino acids which are the building blocks of protiens. You probably can't find an anti-aging product without some kind of peptide in it and everyone thinks theirs is the best, so if you have a line you trust, use it.
  6. Hydration - Skin just looks better when it's well hydrated.  The big one is hyaluronic acid  which, when used topically plumps the skin and deminishes the look of fine lines.  Others are alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic, malic, citric and tartaric), emollients and humectants ( see below) and occlusives such as beeswax, lanolin, avocado  and  olive oils.

This list is not exhaustive; however, these ingredients are fairly easy to find.

 

 

 

 

 

Really, what is the difference between a humectant and an emollient?

 

Simply put, humectants are the ingredients that are meant to go deeper into the skin and attract moisture from the environment to bind with, and between, the cells.  Emollients are the ingredients that are meant to stay on the skin's surface to keep the moisture the humectants have attracted from evaporating. So the best way to use both of these is to apply a humectant serum...let's say one with hyaluronic acid like my SkinScript* Ageless Hydrating Serum...let that penetrate for a few minutes, and then apply an emollient rich moisturizer...let's say one with shea butter like my Skin Script* Hydrating Moisturizer. Top it off with sunscreen and you're good to go.  It's always a good idea to check with your esthetician if you are oily or prone to breakouts before choosing and emollient rich moisturizer. A better choice might be Skin Scripts* Light Aloe Moisturizer with Totarol and Allantoin.

 

For more information on Skin Scripts  http://tinyurl.com/lzvmyre

 

Why is my skin dry?

 

Ask most women how their skin feels after washing their face, but before they put on their moisturizer, and they'll tell you...tight, dry, itchy. That's because skin has been stripped of it's natural protectant, sebum.  Everyone produces sebum, a much needed aspect of healthy skin.  Too much sebum and you get oily skin which can lead to acne.  Too little sebum and your skin can quickly become dry and dehydrated.  But did you know that oily skin can be dehydrated also?  That's because dehydration is a lack of moisture, or water, not oil.  While it's true that excess sebum can keep your skin from losing moisture extrinsically (from the outside)  it can still become dehydrated intrinsically (from the inside).  Too much alcohol and caffeine, medications such as antihistamines and medical conditions such as diabetes can cause even oily skin to become dehydrated.  Some signs and symptoms of dehydration are

  • irritation and inflammation
  • itch 
  • sensitivity
  • flaking and scaling
  • rough look and/or feel
  • amplified look of normal wrinkling
  • dull "dusty" look

Dehydration is caused by things we can and things we can't control.  Intrinsic, or genetic, aging slows down sebum production and circulation meaning less moisture is carried to the skin and held there.

Poor lifestyle choices such as; alcohol, excess caffeine, smoking and prolonged unprotected sun exposure cause extrinsic aging.  Your environment plays a part also.  Cold, wind, heat anything that dries the air will cause dehydration.  Did you know that dry air actually pulls moisture out of anything it comes in contact with, including your skin! So what can you do to protect yourself and prevent dehydration?

  1. Hydrate internally.  Drink plenty of water and limit dehydrators such as alcohol and caffeinne.
  2. Hydrate externally.  Look for humectants in your skin care products.  Humectants actually draw moisture from the environment and bind it to the skin.  Common humectants are: 
  • glycerin 
  • hyaluronic acid 
  • squalene
  • propylene glycol
  • allantoin

     3.  Bind.  Emollients seal moisture into the skin.  Common emollients are:

  • shea butter
  • cocoa butter
  • plant oils such as coconut, olive, grape seed, jojoba and almond
  • beeswax
  • lanolin

     4.  Miscellaneous.

  • take warm, not hot showers and moisturize while skin is still damp
  • if you use air conditioning or heat use a humidifier to keep moisture in the air
  • take supplements to strengthen your circulatory system
  • avoid extended exposure to the elements and protect your skin with sunscreen no matter what time of year it is

A little common sense, a little moisturizer, a little more water will go a long way in keeping your skin looking dewier, and younger throughout the year.

 

 

What is Rosacea?

 

Rosacea is a  disorder of the vascular, or circulatory, system.  More common in women than men, it is characterized by redness, swelling, papules and pustules, distended capillaries and; mostly in men, nose enlargement.  It is hereditary and occurs mainly in light skinned people of western European heritage.  It is important to note that while all rosacea is accompanied by redness, all redness is not rosacea.  People with chronically red skin or skin that flushes easily should visit their dermatologist to have it checked out. In the meantime there are many things that can be done to limit skin flare-ups (flushing that becomes inflammation) and slow or halt the progression of the disease.

  • avoid any type of heat exposure: including hot baths and showers, saunas and steam treatments
  • limit sun exposure and never go without sunscreen
  • avoid stimulating skin treatments including massage
  • avoid stimulating products, if it tingles... toss it
  • use skin care products formulated for sensitive skin
  • avoid anything that dries the skin thus impairing barrier function
  • over exfoliating
  • Alcohol, coffee, hot drinks, citrus fruits and juices, spicy foods can all trigger flushing.  Pay careful attention whe consuming these and discontinue any that cause any reddening.
  • exercise indoors in a cool area, outdoors only during cool hours when the sun is not intense

There is no cure for rosacea, but with proper care, medical supervision and gentle esthetic treatments rosacea can be greatly improved.

 

What is the barrier function?

 

 

Barrier function is the protective aspect of the skin that guards against moisture loss and prevents irritants from entering. It is acombination of lipids (fatty materials) that fill in the gaps between cells. It can be damaged by anything that dries out the skin such as cold, heat, wind, sun exposure, dry air, harsh soaps and overcleansing, and over exfoliation.  Damaged barrier function makes the skin more succeptible to pathogens, chemicals and environmental damage which effects how the skin looks and feels. Internal hydrating through water consumption and external hydrating and moisture retention help keep the barrier function healthy. Look for  ingredients that attract moisture to the skin (humectants) such as glycolic and lactic acids, urea, honey and aloe vera; and ingredients that bind it there (emollients): collagen, hyaluronic acid, vitamin A, shea butter, squalene; coconut, jojoba and sesame and almond oils.

 

What causes broken capillaries?

 

The red veins you can see on your face aren't actually broken.  They are distended and technically called telangiectasisas.  Although they can occur on the chest and other areas, they are most frequently seen on the face, especially on the nose and cheeks.  As we age, our skin loses its elasticity.  The same thing happens to capillaries.  Over time as blood flow subtly increases and decreases due to heat, exercise, alcohol, spicy foods...anything that makes your face red, capillaries stretch and contract, stretch and contract.  As we grow older, they don't contract as well, kind of like a balloon that's been blown up too many times. Because they are very close to the skin's surface, and because our skin grows thinner as we age, they become visible.  They can be successfully treated with lasers, which can be quite painful. Believe me, I speak from experience!  There are a few ingredients that can help:

  • L-ascorbic Acid - strengthens capillaries and cell walls 
  • witch hazel
  • CoQ-10
  • copper peptides
  • niacinamide
  • anything that promotes collagen production

 

 

 

Why do you ask about my medications?

 

 

Some medications can effect the way your skin reacts to products or treatments. Medications also alert your esthetician to conditions that may effect treatments and product choice. For example:

 

Antidepressants can cause dehydration, sun sensitivity and dull the skin's appearance.

 

Thyroid disease can cause increased lipid dryness, hair loss and sensitivity.

 

Antihistamines can cause dehydration, skin sensitivity and sun sensitivity.

 

Diabetes medications can cause skin sensitivity and diabetics have reduced healing ability.

 

Antibiotics can cause photo sensitivity and dehydration.

 

Blood pressure medications can cause photo sensitivity, dehydration, increased sensitivity and redness.

 

Blood thinners cause a high risk for excessive bleeding and bruising. Extractions or waxing are contraindicated. The client's doctor must approve all services.

 

All records are kept confidential and are not viewed by anyone other than your esthetician. 

 

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